frieze magazine

Issue 205

September 2019

The September issue of frieze considers the role of food – aesthetically, sensorially, politically – in contemporary culture, and the human and environmental costs of its cultivation and supply. Writers Chloe Aridjis, Fernando A. Flores, Diana Hamilton, Alexandra Kleeman and Madeleine Thien reflect on our relationship with food through the five senses. Nine contemporary artists, including Olafur Eliasson, Rirkrit Tiravanija, Otobong Nkanga and Heather Phillipson have produced new ‘recipes’ for our cookbook. And Jane Black profiles artist duo Cooking Sections and their long-term investigations into the ethical and political systems that underpin what and how we eat.

Plus, 41 reviews from around the world, including two major exhibitions by the pioneering German artist Rebecca Horn at Centre Pompidou-Metz, France, and Museum Tinguely, Switzerland, and Luc Tuymans’s four-decade retrospective in Venice. And answering our questionnaire is Allen Ruppersberg, whose conceptual restaurant, Al’s Café (1969), served such delicacies as ‘three rocks with crumpled paper wad’ and ‘simulated burned pine needles à la Johnny Cash.’

Cover image: Christopher Knowles, Cheddar House and Bacon Hamburger (detail), 2019, marker on two sheets of paper, 22 x 28 cm. Courtesy: the artist and Gavin Brown’s enterprise, New York

Food is personal, and so is this issue – the first of frieze to focus on food’s aesthetic, sensorial, political and environmental role in contemporary culture

By Andrew Durbin and Evan Moffitt

Specially commissioned recipes by nine artists, including Otobong Nkanga, Heather Phillipson and Rirkrit Tiravanija, ranging from abstract to delectable 

The art world’s dining rituals reinforce its class barriers – which is why we should value the museum coffee

By Dan Fox

From Louis XIV to #foodporn, feasting has always been for the eyes

By Fanny Singer

How dystopian literature influenced the meal replacement industry

By Chris Fite-Wassilak

Jesse Connuck on works by Congolese Plantation Workers Art League & Renzo Martens, Torolab and Annalee Davis

By Jesse Connuck

A Series on the Senses: Smell

By Madeleine Thien

A Series on the Senses: Touch

By Alexandra Kleeman

A Series on the Senses: Sight

By Chloe Aridjis
Francis Alÿs, Untitled, 2016, oil, pencil, tape and staples on tracing paper, 38 × 31 cm. Courtesy: © Francis Alÿs and David Zwirner

A Series on the Senses: Hearing

By Fernando A. Flores

A Series on the Senses: Taste

By Diana Hamilton

The lumbung, or rice barn, sets the stage for the group’s documenta opening in 2022

By Ruangrupa