frieze magazine

Issue 205

September 2019

The September issue of frieze considers the role of food – aesthetically, sensorially, politically – in contemporary culture, and the human and environmental costs of its cultivation and supply. Writers Chloe Aridjis, Fernando A. Flores, Diana Hamilton, Alexandra Kleeman and Madeleine Thien reflect on our relationship with food through the five senses. Nine contemporary artists, including Olafur Eliasson, Rirkrit Tiravanija, Otobong Nkanga and Heather Phillipson have produced new ‘recipes’ for our cookbook. And Jane Black profiles artist duo Cooking Sections and their long-term investigations into the ethical and political systems that underpin what and how we eat.

Plus, 41 reviews from around the world, including two major exhibitions by the pioneering German artist Rebecca Horn at Centre Pompidou-Metz, France, and Museum Tinguely, Switzerland, and Luc Tuymans’s four-decade retrospective in Venice. And answering our questionnaire is Allen Ruppersberg, whose conceptual restaurant, Al’s Café (1969), served such delicacies as ‘three rocks with crumpled paper wad’ and ‘simulated burned pine needles à la Johnny Cash.’

Cover image: Christopher Knowles, Cheddar House and Bacon Hamburger (detail), 2019, marker on two sheets of paper, 22 x 28 cm. Courtesy: the artist and Gavin Brown’s enterprise, New York

‘The past must be enriched’: An interview with leading French sociologists Luc Boltanski and Arnaud Esquerre

By Pablo Larios, Luc Boltanski and Arnaud Esquerre

‘We are being poisoned because we have been severed from who we are’

By Jennifer Higgie

Reckoning with the legacy of Jim Harrison, whose writing portrayed women like meals – meant to give pleasure and comfort, without having any hunger themselves

By Julia Langbein

Ahead of her retrospective at London’s Whitechapel Gallery, the artist speaks to contributing editor Fernanda Brenner about the themes of hunger and hybridity in her work

By Fernanda Brenner

Artist Dena Yago on food, affect and the Silicon Valley workplace

By Dena Yago

Q. What would we find in your fridge? A. Shipwreck casserole and sailor’s duff

By Allen Ruppersberg

The artist reflects on the natural organisms and systems that have inspired his work at Salmon Creek Farm

By Fritz Haeg

From climate-resistant menus to colonial desserts, Cooking Sections ask us to think again about the ethics and economics of the food on our plates

By Jane Black

‘Queer Spaces’ at Whitechapel Gallery documents the disappearance of many of London’s LGBTQ+ venues

By Juliet Jacques

At Ujazdowski Castle, Warsaw, Simon’s art is a prescient critique of art-making itself

By Pablo Larios

In Rezaire’s work, prehistoric West African landmarks stand for enigmas of the past and future

By Kadish Morris

Considering our scripted future at Helsinki Contemporary 

By Tom Jeffreys